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Textile Politics: Authority, Identity, Patronage

By: Mulk Raj, Anand.
Contributor(s): Jayakar, Pupul.
Publisher: Mumbai Marg Publications 2022Edition: Vol.73(4), Jun-Sep.Description: 88-110p.Subject(s): ARCHITECTURE GENERAL (AR-GEN)Online resources: Click here In: MargSummary: Politics inhabits cloth. In the articles in this section scholars explore how textiles express authority, reveal group politics and negotiate individual identities. These politics operated at the level of the state. Kashmiri shawls expressed shared culture and political incorporation during the Mughal empire, while indigo cultivation offered a potent tool of imperial power under East India Company rule. But politics also operated within and between individual communities, marking claims, revealing aspirations and defining boundaries. For 19th-century reformers, innovation in dress enabled women to step out into the public realm. And for Gandhi—as for those who followed in his footsteps—cloth was integral to the project of national revival, and in subsequent decades, symbolic of other allegiances.
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Politics inhabits cloth. In the articles in this section scholars explore how textiles express authority, reveal group politics and negotiate individual identities. These politics operated at the level of the state. Kashmiri shawls expressed shared culture and political incorporation during the Mughal empire, while indigo cultivation offered a potent tool of imperial power under East India Company rule. But politics also operated within and between individual communities, marking claims, revealing aspirations and defining boundaries. For 19th-century reformers, innovation in dress enabled women to step out into the public realm. And for Gandhi—as for those who followed in his footsteps—cloth was integral to the project of national revival, and in subsequent decades, symbolic of other allegiances.

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